Foulain (when Friday became Wednesday)

Waking up on Wednesday in Chaumont

Totally against the laws dictating that gas bottles run out at the most inconvenient time and in the most atrocious weather, ours ran out in glorious sunshine on Wednesday morning.  It normally takes an age to change a bottle due to the conditions but this took no time at all.  In fact it was a good omen because Karen announced she had had some meetings rescheduled and was therefore free to help out at locks on Wednesday afternoon whilst working.  So we decided to move on from Chaumont and get back into the countryside rather than wait until Friday as originally planned.

During the morning I went to the local garage to fill up the diesel cans and change the gas bottle.  Before we left, Karen drove the car part of the way to Foulain, our next stop, left it in the village of Chamarandes and ran back with Buddy.  We’d worked out that it would take between four and five hours to reach Foulain so we needed to leave soon after midday to arrive before the locks close at six.  We use on a formula of five lock-kilometres an hour: with 14 kilometres and eight locks that’s 22 in total, dividing that by five results in just over four hours.  For comparison we use three lock-miles per hour in the UK.  

Leaving Chaumont

There were only three campers in the port when we left as nine had gone during the morning, but no doubt more would turn up during the day.  They’re still all French plated because of the restrictions on travel between EU countries but I expect that will change in a few weeks when Belgians, a keen camping nation, will probably be allowed in.

The weather was a mix of cloud and sun all afternoon but at least it was warm enough to cruise in tee shirts.  It feels like the consistently good weather is taking an age to arrive this year.  We are reminded that we were really lucky in the first lockdown a year ago as we were sitting outside with Nikki & Gorete on our pontoon nearly every day in April and May.

Heading for the first lock as we left Chaumont

It was just as well we’d left with some time to spare as we had to call VNF at the first two locks.  Both had refused to recognise our télécommande requests to get the locks set and the lights remained red.  Strangely both went green just before the éclusier arrived in his van and we ended up only being delayed 15 minutes or so.

When we went through the lock at Chamarandes where Karen had left the car, the guy in the lock cottage came out to chat.  He was keen to understand where we were heading for the next few months so he could show off his knowledge of the French waterways.  When he found out we had left the car near his cottage he said we could bring it onto his land and leave it there for as long as we liked.  As kind as his offer was we had to explain that the we needed the car with us at the moment as we had some important trips to make in the next few weeks.

Passing Luzy-sur-Marne

We crossed the Marne on aqueducts a couple of times during the journey and the river is now a lot narrower as we’re only 50 kilometres or so from its source.  For the first time this year we noticed tourists hiking and cycling on the towpath making it feel like holidaying had finally arrived.  It was just as well as we needed help at three locks.  The locks along this part of the canal are about four metres deep which is about the limit for Karen to reach up with her pole to loop a line over a bollard.  The trouble with some of the locks was that the bollards were set too far back from the sides for Karen to see where they were so I had to bring the back of the boat out into the middle of the lock to try and direct her.   At each of the three locks where we had this trouble we had to call a sightseer to take Karen’s line which they were all more than happy to do.

Eager helpers

At least by calling VNF out at the first two locks meant we had an éclusier close by when we needed the bridge lifting at Luzy-sur-Marne.

It was well timed as we immediately passed the first boat we’ve seen for a while, a Dutch registered commercial heading north.

After the expected four hours we were nearing Foulain and as there were no more locks we knew we’d make it in time.

Foulain around the corner

Once we’d moored up we both agreed it was the best mooring we’ve come across so far on this canal and looked forward to staying for a few days.  Soon after settling in we saw two girls looking into the boat trying to get our attention.  I went outside and found out that they had lost their dog earlier in the day and wondered if we’d seen it.  They lived in the next village and were driving around trying to find it.  I took the mum’s number while the daughter ran back to the car to get her phone so she could show us a picture of the missing dog.  Not a nice experience for them and we both recalled the distraught feeling we had when we lost Buddy for a while on the fells in the Yorkshire Dales.

On Wednesday we cruised nine miles up eight locks.

Thursday was Ascension Day in France so was a public holiday.  We’ve noticed before that it’s not a serious public holiday as many shops remain open unlike on Labour day when everything, even canals, are closed.  Schools and offices were shut though so there were a few families out walking during the day and picnicking on ‘our’ green by the mooring 😉 We’re attached to the mooring at Foulain already and, as I said earlier, we both think it’s the best we’ve come across so far on this canal.

We're moored in the distance by 'our' green

We had our weekly bridge lesson in the morning and after lunch I cycled back to Chamarandes to get the car.  As I left, a Dutch barge came into view and it looked like it was thinking of mooring in front of us.  Selfishly, I hoped they were only stopping for a late lunch and I carried on cycling.  There were many butterflies on the wing which slowed my journey down as I had to keep stopping and looking but I did manage to find a freshly emerged male green underside blue.  These are a species of butterfly not seen in the UK, so I was rather delighted to find it even if the name is rather unimaginative.

Male green underside blue

After collecting the car, I popped into Chaumont to pick up my laptop charger that had been delivered to an Amazon locker there. Even though I’d only been using our back up French laptop for a few days I’d quickly become accustomed to the French keyboard layout.  When I got back home, I was secretly pleased to see the Dutch barge wasn’t moored in front of us.  Karen confirmed my thoughts and said they did stop but just for lunch.

My next task was to fill up with water which wasn’t a simple matter.  The water point was a push button type that I still haven't managed to get the appropriate hose attachment for, so it meant filling up our plastic containers and transporting them to the boat. I know it’s an operation that we’ve had to do on other occasions, but this was more complicated.  Not only was the tap quite a way away from the boat but it was quite high off the ground making the containers difficult to fill.  The distance from the boat was easily solved by using the sack barrow and the height issue resolved by using our picnic table and a funnel.

I did suggest to Karen that the tap was high enough for us to shower underneath so we could save quite a bit of effort.  Her response was that I should try it first.

Having filled up with water I noticed a local couple taking great interest in the boat and Buddy.  They had a medium sized dog that was so old it had to be carried so maybe that’s why the lady was making such a fuss of Buddy.  They obviously wanted to talk and find out more about us and the boat and I think I managed to explain everything in my poor French.  They were very patient and said when they couldn’t understand me and were happy to help me find alternative words.  They did ask what we do in the villages we travel through and without thinking I said we like looking for lavoirs.  When having a conversation in French I always steer clear of asking about local lavoirs because the natural response is to tell me where the nearest launderette is.  I felt on form though, so I followed up by explaining that I meant old wash houses and they had a quick huddle and whispered conversation together.

It transpired that they wanted to take their dog home in the car and then come back again to walk me into the village to show me their local lavoir.  How could I resist?  It was a bit surreal trying to have a conversation as we walked through the village especially as she wanted to take Buddy’s lead.  The only English spoken was when I asked how old their dog was and she said, ‘thirty’ which surely was wrong.  We soon came across the lavoir which was one of the stand-up varieties where the ladies didn’t have to kneel down.  It was fed by a stream and the washing stones were really smooth.

Lavoir de Foulain

Yes, they were in puffa jackets while I was in a tee shirt.  Like the Italians, the French don’t dispense with coats until the temperature is approaching 30.

Later on I received an email to say Karen’s French residency card had been delivered to the lock house in Châlons-en-Champagne but had to be returned to the post office as it needed to be signed for by the recipient.  Our plans for Friday quickly changed as we thought we’d better get over there before the post office decided to send it back to the préfecture.  It does mean that I’ll have to make another journey when mine arrives.

Karen and Buddy went for a run on Friday morning while I did some log cutting as it looks like we may have some wet and chilly mornings for a while.  After an early lunch we drove up to Châlons-en-Champagne to pick up Karen’s carte de séjour.  We took all my details along too in the vain hope that mine may have also arrived.  Needless to say, mine wasn’t there but at least Karen has hers and I doubt mine’ll be much longer.

Karen popped into town to pick up a few things while I took Buddy for a walk.  She came across some of the drain covers we’ve seen before but noticed they are being refurbished.  Here’s a couple of them:

Outside a vets and an art shop

We popped into the port afterwards and had a cuppa with Bill & Jane on Lazybones who still haven’t left to go cruising this year.  In fact, Guy & Ardon on Vindi hadn’t left yet either but they weren’t around so we didn’t see them.  It was good to see Bill & Jane and catch up with what’s been happening since we left nine weeks ago.  It was a two hour journey each way, so we didn’t get back until the early evening but as it was really quite pleasant we got on with potting up some more plants.  

We often do the washing on Saturdays but as we were expecting it to rain all day we thought we’d leave it until another day.  In the end there was very little rain and with a strong breeze it would’ve been an ideal drying day.  We did decide to pot up the rest of the summer flowers with the expectation that we would be doing it as and when there were breaks in the rain.  As it was, we didn’t get rained on and managed to complete the task in one session.  We popped into Chaumont for the weekly shop followed by a walk to revisit the large lavoir in the Suize valley below. Driving back through town we passed the large library near the station that is strangely called les Silos. 

The silos

I’ve often thought that this is an unusual name but realised on this occasion where it came from.  The buildings were originally grain silos as confirmed by the wording and ears of wheat around the eaves.

Later if the afternoon we had a walk around Foulain but didn’t find any more lavoirs; however, we came across a drinking trough.  It was in a really odd place, along the front boundary to a house.

To finish this entry, here’s a picture update of our grandsons, Dexter & Ellis 😊