MONDAY 24 OCTOBER
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| Moored below écluse 13 |
Monday was cruise day, and we followed
the routine we’ve adopted ever since we started keeping the car with us after returning
to the boat at the end of August. Each time
we move, Karen combines her morning run with taking the car to where we want to
moor next. The reason we’re keeping the car with us now is because of the lack of
supermarkets within walking distance of the canal between Nancy and
Strasbourg. As we intend staying in
these areas for at least another month we will continue the lock hopping routine.
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| Heading for our next stop |
We moored about a kilometre short of Lagarde just below a lock which, once again, was just as remote and peaceful as any of the other locations we’ve stayed at recently. After a quick lunch we walked up the canal to have a scout around Lagarde, a typical small Lorraine agricultural village that once had a quay as shown in a postcard from the start of 1900s. In those days this area was German consequently the text on the card is German.
The quay is now home to a large hire boat basin, rather out of place in such a small village. In addition to a couple of overwintering private boats we counted 40 hire boats which looked like the whole fleet must be in as there only seemed to be space for a couple more boats.
The point of the walk was to check out where we’ll moor next, and when we walked out of the far side of Lagarde there was lock which looked ideal to moor above. One of the reasons it was ideal was because it had a bench which would be perfect for sawing logs on. It's hard to believe the cold weather will arrive soon and we'll be needing the stove lit but it's always good to be prepared. We didn’t bother looking around the village but saw signs to one French and two German war cemeteries, so we made a note to find these when we’re exploring the village once we’ve moved up to the lock.
On Monday we cruised two kilometres
through no locks.
TUESDAY 25 OCTOBER
With the warm weather forecast to last
until the end of the month in this part of France we wanted to make the most of
it by getting in plenty of walks, so over
breakfast we worked out a good walk to follow on Tuesday.
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| Upside down view on Tuesday morning |
Most walks we follow have some sort of signage to a greater or lesser extent. Usually, they take the form of coloured shapes such as circles or triangles attached to trees or posts. This particular walk wasn’t signed and looked like it followed farm and forest tracks for ten kilometres. It was also rectangular so met one of our requirements of being logically circular. Setting off we headed north from the canal across a field with a kale-looking crop:
We then walked on a causeway across the
middle of a lake which had more birdlife in evidence than we’ve seen for ages:
After the lake the farm track turned
sharp right but we knew we needed to go straight through the wood ahead of us. There was no obvious path but, as we knew we
had to keep in a straight line we pressed on.
As usual Buddy was on his lead which was just as well with the number of
deer and red squirrels we saw. We also
saw a fox which is not something we often come across in France.
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| No obvious track |
We finally came onto a forest track and followed it for another kilometre until it emerged the other side into more arable land where we turned east.
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| Looking back at the woods we’d come through |
Heading along the brow of a hill we could see the village of Ommeray below, but our track bypassed the village and turned back south towards the canal.
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| Ommeray |
It was at this point that we saw the only other person during the walk, a dog walker who we could see in the distance walking out of Ommeray. The track back to the canal at Lagarde gave us wonderful views across to Germany:
Dropping into Lagarde we decided to go straight to the canal and get back to the boat, as we would be exploring the village on another day; however, we did walk past the mairie which had unusually placed flags. Normally they are flown from above the main doorway or the second floor, but this was the first time we’ve seen them at street level. Not only that, but they were very small compared with those that are normally flown on mairies. It was traditional in other senses such as originally housing the village school.
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| Lagarde mairie and its tiny low flags |
WEDNESDAY 26 OCTOBER
As we haven’t been to a town to do some sightseeing for a while, we went to Sarrebourg on Wednesday to rectify the situation and also celebrate my birthday. It was a town we hadn’t visited before as it was just too far away from the canal when we came through earlier in the year but having the car meant we could get there in around 40 minutes. Our first port of call was the tourist office where we were furnished with a couple of self-guided town trails. As it was approaching noon, we decided to have lunch first and went to good local restaurant recommended by the girl in the tourist office. It was the sort of place we wouldn’t have thought of going into but were really glad we did and had a great time. Amazingly, after a long and leisurely lunch, we were still up for doing the touristy stuff, mind you Karen was driving so couldn’t celebrate in quite the same way as I did.
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| Lunchtime venue |
We started our tour down at the river Sarre that runs through the town and found the area that used to house flour mills. The mills were replaced by apartments and other buildings in the 1950s and ‘60s but two millstreams can still be seen.
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| Channels at top left and in the centre were millstreams |
Apparently, there was a large town lavoir where the tree now stands but nothing seems to remain of that other than in old photographs. We then made our way to the market square, and it obviously wasn’t market day because the square was being used as a car park.
The old market halls stood on the
square but with rather a garish sign although the market bell helped detract
the eye.
Sarrebourg wasn’t as large as we
thought it was going to be, so it didn’t take long to look around. The next square was called place de
Cordeliers and was the original market square; the oldest surviving building there
being the chapel of Cordeliers:
The theatre looked quite out of place
as it seemed to be the only building in the town built in the Art Nouveau
style:
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| Sarrebourg theatre |
The hôtel de ville, in common with town halls in other French towns and villages, was still flying its Ukrainian flag, and stood on place Wilson, along with the town war memorial:
Next door to the hôtel de ville was a
fine solid looking building, dating from the 1600s, built for the Count of
Custine. He was also known as the Lord
of Niderviller, a pottery town we visited earlier this year.
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| Hôtel de Custine |
A Hungarian sculptor in metal who we’d never heard of, Sandor Kiss, lives locally. We were rather taken with the grills he designed for the original gateway to the library that had several Rococco style adornments.
A fountain in the library courtyard
also had Rococco style adornments but it was looking rather sorry for itself.
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| Fountain described as beautiful (?) in our leaflet |
As was common with the large towns of the Middle Ages, it was surrounded by ramparts. Originally the walls ran for over 1,600 metres interspersed by 28 towers. Nowadays very little remains of the walls other than a stretch on the edge of parc de la Liberté…
…and a couple of towers lurking
incongruously amongst modern buildings elsewhere in the town:
As I mentioned earlier, there was also
a sculpture trail around the town. Each
year for the last 20 years or so, a new sculpture is added to the trail which
seems a nice idea. Even though the
accompanying leaflet highlighted the places the sculptures could be found,
there was no key indicating the name of each piece or indeed the sculptor. The next few pictures show some of the
sculptures we came across with the names taken from the pieces themselves.
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| Jean et Christophe by Monique Mol |
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| La Grande Matinée by François Cacheux |
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| Le torse by Gérard Ramon |
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| Tellina by Elisabeth Cibot |
We also took advantage of being in a town by getting some food shopping done on the way home. Unbeknownst to me Karen had bought a rather nice bottle of wine and a selection of local cheeses on behalf of her mum as a birthday present to me so we spent much of the evening enjoying the same.
THURSDAY 27 OCTOBER
After a busy day on Wednesday, we
took it easy on Thursday, although I definitely wouldn’t call going for a
morning run is easy but that’s why Karen does them and not me. We took it so easy that we didn’t cruise the
two kilometres up to the lock at Lagarde as we had planned to do. For my part I
did some log cutting which I suppose is a form of exercise especially in the
unusually warm weather we’re continuing to experience.
FRIDAY 28 OCTOBER
We decided to move up to the lock at Lagarde on Friday morning, but first of all, we combined moving the car with a morning walk, not that it was onerous as we only had to move the car a couple of kilometres. It was another day in the mid-20sºC, and Buddy was really taking it easy. When we go up locks, Buddy usually jumps off when we’re near the top, has a quick sniff around and then jumps back on board. Today, when we neared the top of the first lock he jumped off as usual but rather than sniffing around, he just lay down on the grass until I called him back.
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| Near the top and a relaxed Buddy |
In Lagarde we stopped at the hire
boat base and took on water. A sign said
that there was a charge of 2€ but I suspect that if we’d filled up and just left
then we wouldn’t have been spotted as the hire boat office was at the far end
of the yard. Whilst the tank was filling,
I walked down the quay to see about paying.
There were a couple of guys working on a boat that was out of the water,
but they weren’t interested in taking money and directed me to the office. The office was hidden away from the quay and
after ringing a bell several times, a woman finally appeared and seemed really
surprised when I said I wanted to pay for water but was happy to take my cash
and put it in a drawer. A few minutes after
moving off from the water point, we were going up the lock where we were mooring
for the weekend.
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| Moored above écluse 12 in Lagarde |
Once again it was a stunning open location with no passers-by and the only sign of life being farm vehicles, even the house next to the mooring seemed empty but we did notice the shutters were closed in the evening. Mind you, there seemed to be a tractor passing on the road opposite every ten minutes or so that I began to wonder if we were in some farm machinery display, especially as some of them seemed to be vintage vehicles. After a while I realised that the pre-war tractors were moving log piles from the woods and re-stacking them in communal areas in the village, a task that always seems to be carried out using the oldest equipment. Late silage making was also going on but with more modern tractors, and the cut fields were being sprayed by muck spreaders. This meant it wasn’t particularly peaceful until the evening but it wasn't intrusive apart from the waft of muck coming in through the open hatch each time a spreader went past.
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| Our view for the weekend |
On Friday we cruised two km up two locks.
SATURDAY 29 OCTOBER
We stayed put on Saturday doing
various odd jobs during the morning and then had a walk around midday, making
sure we took in the two small WWI cemeteries that are at either end of Lagarde. Lagarde is only a small village (pop. 185)
but was the scene of a devastating conflict early in WWI. On the 11th August 1914, 553
French and 379 German soldiers died in the battle and were buried by the
Germans in the two cemeteries over the following two days. The French cemetery lay to the west of the
village, signposted by a Michelin sign:
The cemetery, as always seems to
be the case, was well maintained and contained the marked graves of 352 men
with the remainder in two ossuaries at the rear.
We then walked through the village
to find the German cemetery.
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| Centre of Lagarde |
Beside the church stood a memorial to the battle of Lagarde on 11th August 1914:
The bilingual sign for the German cemetery
included the German War Graves Commission logo which I always find rather
stark:
The cemetery itself wasn’t as well
maintained as any other we’ve visited which was a bit sad. The crosses mark the graves of two soldiers,
sometimes three:
We hadn’t realised until this visit that 100,000 Jews fought in the German army during WWI; one of them was buried in the cemetery:
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| Unusual sight of a gravestone marking a Jewish German soldier |
Two stones can be seen on top of the gravestone of the Jewish soldier. It wasn't until this visit that we learnt about the Jewish custom of placing stones on graves rather than flowers. Both customs are probably rooted in the belief that the soul is kept down for longer.
We were going to put the butterflies and name on the remaining side later in the afternoon, but the bank was just a bit too high for us to do it comfortably without hurting our backs. As we want to get the outside finished before the weather breaks, we’ll probably move back to the lock at Xures on Sunday where we did the butterflies and name on the other side.
