Sunday, 21 October 2018

Pratolungo (church and cow bells)

Our new home – Lago d’Orta
We left Pescina, our home for the last month, soon after eight on Friday morning and headed north to the Italian lakes.  We drove up through Siena, Florence, Bologna, Parma and Milan.  Once we hit Bolgna we took the autostrada to Milan which runs in a practically straight line from Naples to Milan.  I have only driven on it a couple of times before and had forgotten how monotonous it gets.

A train line runs alongside for most of the way and the journey is brightened when a high-speed train overtakes and makes you feel that your 80mph is more like 10mph.  Oh, and the other thing of course is keeping out of the way of Germans heading home after their holidays at speeds which must be well in excess of 100mph. 

After 250 miles we stopped for lunch and to let Buddy stretch his legs.  He wasn’t interested in having a wander round the Fido Park or even drinking any water and just lay down in the hot sun:

    
We (I) only got lost once and headed east instead of west when we had gone through Milan, but it was noticed quickly and added only about three miles to the journey so no impact really.  I did get in the wrong lane at a short stretch of toll road around Milan; not paying proper attention I went through one of the ANPR lanes for those who have pre-paid passes.  After an embarrassed discussion on the intercom (and probably a lot of impatient Italians in the queue behind me) we were let through without a ticket and it was all sorted out automatically when we went through the next toll. 

The only other thing of note, toll-wise, was that one booth wouldn’t take our cards and swallowed our ticket, so we couldn’t start the payment process again.  In the end we were presented with a long sheet of paper basically requesting, we think, that we pay within 15 days or get shot (our Italian is still not up to much).

Saying that we had been in Tuscany for a month reminded me that we have obviously hit some sort of limit and our browsers constantly ask if we want to translate English websites into Italian.  I suppose it makes sense and I imagine the limit is four weeks stay in a country and is no doubt controlled by browser cookies.

One thing I always look out for when driving are foreign vehicles and where they are from.  On the journey I saw my first ever Maltese (M) and Montenegran (MNE) plated lorries.  I know it sounds sad but it helps pass the time 😉  There were no other new plates to me but I did see two that I have only seen a couple of times before: BIH (Bosnia & Herzegovena) and MK (Macedonia).

We arrived at the campsite at about three o’clock and quickly got ourselves organised.  It’s a really pleasant site and as it’s a quiet time of year we managed to get a pitch right on the edge, overlooking the lake and the village of Pettenasco.  Behind us, to the north we can see the snow-covered peaks of the Alps, so we are in a most picturesque place.  Lago d’Orta is one of the smaller lakes, just over eight miles long and is the farthest west.  It is also the only lake whose exit river heads north rather than south.

Our spot overlooking the lake with the only island, Isola di San Giulio, to the left of the tree behind the car

After setting up camp we went for a wander around Pratolungo which is a collection of summer villas, the camp site, a couple of restaurants, a church and a couple of farms.  We heard much cow bell ringing and as we rounded a corner saw an old guy walking his eight cows down the road to his house for milking.  We did rather suspect that he and his aged wife milked the cows by hand. 

There is a small field next to us which has a single bull in it and it seems to like the sound of its bell as every so often it has a little run around with much bell clanging. 

Bringing in the last two cows – the old lady in the distance is at the gate waiting to guide them in with a pushchair
Talking about bells, the church strikes the hour and half hour but, fortunately only between six in the morning and ten at night.  There is another church further along the lake and that strikes the same times but is running about three minutes later.  If the bull next to us decides to have a run around at the right time it can feel like the bells are pretty constant.  And then, if it's time for one of the many masses they seem to have then the bells start all over again.  We had to laugh at about three in the morning because the bull decided to have a run around and show off his bell for a while.

The church behind the campsite
After being in the Tuscany house for a month it was good to be back camping again as it’s more like the boating life we both love.  In fact, Karen reckoned she had the best night’s sleep since we were camping on our way down 😊 We took it easy on Saturday morning and took our time over breakfast and deciding what to do for the day. 

We had hoped to get a ferry over to the island and maybe then across to the other side of the lake, but the website was saying that from the middle of October the only services were now on a Sunday, so we gave it a miss. Plan B was to walk down to Pettenasco which is a little town on the lake and then have a walk along the shore.  We needed to get some wine and a few other heavy things and as the walk back to the campsite is steep we took the car down and parked near the supermarket before going for our walk, so plan C in effect.

When we got down there, Karen went for a run and I took Buddy for a walk.  Karen was so happy to be running on level ground after the mountain roads and paths she has been on recently.   While we were going our separate ways I heard a boat and assumed it was just a private boat but as it went past I saw it was a ferry!  

A non-existent ferry in the distance

It turns out I was looking at website for hiring boats for parties and that the ferries were still running 😉   We met up after Karen’s run, went for a walk, ate our picnic by the lake, and then found a bar before heading off to the supermarket.

It was lovely and quiet as a lot of the villas along the shore were shuttered up now the season is nearly over. 

Cooling the feet after a visit to the bar
When we got back to the campsite we had a rare glimpse of the guy who seems to run the place so we went to settle up in case we didn’t see him again.  His card machine wasn’t working so we had to pay by cash and we just had enough.  As we were now extremely short of cash we went out again to find the ATM at Orta san Guilio.

What a shock we got when we arrived at the village which is on a promontory overlooking Isola di San Giulio.  It seemed to consist of packed out coach and car parks and there were people everywhere.   Our original plan A had been to visit the place and walk around the promontory – we were lucky not to have followed that plan, but at least we got a closer look at the island:

A closer view of Isola di San Giulio with the evening haze starting to gather over the lake



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