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A different sort of town square at Bagno Vignoni |
Karen has changed her
running course so she can utilise a path we have found in the woods and avoid
running so much on the steep road. She
leaves the house, uses our ½ km long drive as a walking warm-up and then runs
2 km uphill to the path which seems to follow a contour around the
mountain. At the same time, Buddy and I
take the car up the road and park at the start of the path and then go for our
own walk in the woods. We then time it
so that that we all meet up ½ km from the car, so Karen can do her warm down
walk and we all drive back home for a cooked breakfast.
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The leaves on the trees are changing colour but we still have the stunning blue Tuscan skies 😊 |
After the run/walk in the
woods we spent the rest of Saturday at home enjoying the late summer sun. In the evening we went out for a pizza at the
restaurant we failed to get one at last week.
On that visit we found they only fired up the pizza oven in the evening,
but we still enjoyed a full lunchtime meal.
One thing we have noticed
is that food shopping is more expensive here compared with when we travelled
through France, which in turn seemed more expensive than in the UK. We were pleasantly surprised how cheap the
meal was, even a bottle of good local wine was only 8 euros, and we did enjoy
the pizzas.
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Don’t usually put up pictures of food but these were really special for us |
Sunday was a ‘do day’ and
we decided to make it a touristy day and visit Montepulciano, Pienza and Bagno
Vignoni. This meant a circular drive of about
60 miles, further east into the beautiful Val d’Orcia and away from ‘our’
mountain, Monte Amiata.
It was Montepulciano first
and to get there we had to drive through Vivo d’Orcia which you may remember is
a village where we bought some antihistamine tabs when we first arrived. I
mention this because when we were at the pharmacy we couldn’t believe how busy
it was considering how small the place was. Anyway this time, as we drove
down the hill to the village we passed six or seven coaches parked in a
viewpoint lay-by and then came across cars parked all over the place at the side of the road. It turned
out that the village was hosting a chestnut and mushroom festival. We ummed and
aahed about changing our plans but decided to carry on.
Not far from Montepulciano
we found ourselves on an unmade road for about 6km and it was a real
bone-shaker as it was heavily rutted. It
was odd as all other main roads we have been on have now been tarmacked but for
some reason this one had been left.
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The dust had turned all the vegetation grey |
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Approaching Montepulciano |
As with other hill towns
we have visited, the streets are thankfully car-free except for the residents.
I expect this is down to the whole region
being declared a UNESCO World Heritage site which must help boost tourism and
hence the local income.
Apart from Siena, where we
expected it, we could hear English being spoken everywhere; it seemed the place
was full of Americans of all ages. One group of youngsters (probably in their
early 30s
😜) made a big fuss of Buddy whilst we were
having lunch outside the town hall.
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The town hall in Montepulciano |
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Looking north across the valley (Val d’Orcia) |
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Walking to one of the squares |
After lunch we walked back
down the hill to the car and headed off for Pienza.
We heard thunder in the distance and noticed
that the clouds were rolling in from Monte Amiata.
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Random picture of me and Buddy with rain clouds approaching |
Even though the clouds
threatened, the rain never came, and they soon cleared away. Driving to Pienza we noticed there was a lot
more traffic on the roads and especially motor homes. We realised that we were on the main route,
other than the autostrada, between Rome and Florence.
We arrived at Pienza to
find it just as packed as Montepulciano so decided to give it a miss and head
off for Bagno Vignoni. Again, it was
busy, but we decided to stop and look around as it was quite different to other
places in that the main piazza was a thermal pool that dates back to Roman times.
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The thermal baths in the centre of Bagno Vignoni |
As we were finishing our
wander round, the clouds started rolling in again, but we had a look around the
site of some old mills before heading back to the car. I cannot find out what the
mills were used for but they were driven by the water from the thermal
springs.
There were several mills dotted
down the hillside, some of which are being restored.
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Not much more than foundations left – Rocca d’Orcia is the hill town in the distance |
As we got back to the car
there were a few large drops of rain, more thunder and that was it, but it
certainly feels like we are going to get some rain in the next day or two.
Although we were glad we
had the day trip it made us appreciate how fortunate we are staying away from
the tourist traps and have our local hill towns of Seggiano, Arcidosso and
Castel del Piano. Although they don’t
have the grand palaces and town halls etc. of the well-known towns, they are
still inspiring in their own way and very peaceful to walk around.
Having been here a few
weeks we now have our own routine and it’s a bit like living on the boat where
most of the time we’re completely on our own and happy with our own company.
Oh, and the porcupine? Unfortunately, it was fast asleep at the side
of the road, so I’ve still only ever seen one live one in the wild.
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