Vic-sur-Aisne (a life day)

After a good walk on Friday morning we had our weekly online bridge lesson followed by an hour’s play, all of which we really enjoyed.  While we were playing bridge, we saw a Danish motor yacht cruise past in our direction and thought no more about it.  After a quick lunch we set off for Attichy which meant going up three locks.  The locks on the River Aisne are operated using a télécommande which is picked up at the first lock from a dispenser.  The first lock wasn’t far away so I called up on the VHF channel indicated by the guidebook to let them know we were on our way. 

There was no response but once the lock came into view, we could see the Danish boat hovering at the entrance, there being no lock landing.  Using the binoculars, Karen could make out a couple of people at the side of the lock, so we assumed there was some sort of problem.  We didn’t have to wait long before the lock was ready for us, but the poor Danes had had to wait for 45 minutes.

Waiting at the first lock on Thursday

When we rose to the top an éclusier gave us our télécommande, so we didn’t have to get off the boat and use the dispenser.  I asked him why there was no response to my radio call, and he told me that they use a telephone at that lock now.  The Danes had had a similar issue and, on top of that, had also fallen foul of the éclusier’s lunch hour, hence their long wait. Being young Danes, they spoke perfect English and asked if they could follow us as they were a bit nervous having not used télécommandes before.

Télécommande dispenser

I joked to Karen that I don’t know how anyone can get nervous if they're able to sail on the seas as these guys usually did.  Using the radio as we went along, I explained to them how to use the télécommande and things to look out for that could go wrong.  For example, some locks have an overhead, centrally placed sensor that recognises when a boat enters the lock.  As they had a narrow boat like us, I explained it’s best to go into the lock dead centre otherwise, if the sensor isn’t triggered they’ll have to reverse out and start again.  Karen had her turn to joke as she said it sounded like I was giving a masterclass in locking!

Although the pictures from the day look like the weather was grotty, it was surprisingly mild, and we didn’t suffer from any rain.  We were still really enjoying the river, likening it to the Marne which holds such happy memories for us from last year.  The locks were all shallow which reflects the gentle slope of the river which in turn adds to the general tranquillity.

The peaceful Aisne

Before we arrived at the second lock our Danish friends called up and explained they were going to have to turn around.  They'd had a call from a sister saying she'd arrived in Compiègne and was joining them.  As Compiègne was on the River Oise it meant they had to go back down the Aisne to get on the Oise.  

Although the river was placid during our cruise, each lock had reminders of how high the water level can rise.  Water marks were placed on control huts or similar to bring home how different things would be in times of flood.

This picture shows the potential difference

The only problem we’ve come across so far is that because some bends are fairly sharp, the channel crosses to the other side.  This is to allow boats heading upstream to take the deeper line. Such points are noted in the guidebook and also by signs at the side. We’ve learnt only to follow the official signs at the side as the guidebook can be out of date. 

Crossover sign at a lock exit

The guidebook didn’t show a crossover at one point so it must have been changed since the guide was published but we followed the signs and crossed over.  The signs over the spans on the bridge also showed we’d done the right thing, so it was a relief to see further confirmation.

A bridge where boats have to go through the ‘wrong’ side

The double diamond indicates the channel to take and that it’s one way; a single diamond also indicates the channel, but a single diamond would mean it’s two way.  Anyway, I get nervous when traveling on the ‘wrong’ side, especially on the inside of a tight bend, in case a commercial coming the other way has decided not to follow the signs.  I know it’s silly to feel like that but it’s always a great relief when the sign to cross back to the right channel appears.

Safety ahead!

It wasn’t long before we were calling Thursday a kingfisher day; like the Marne there seem to be a large number of the birds on this river.  We had the fortunate experience of both of us seeing one dive into the water and emerge again to perch in a tree.  By the time we were alongside it was too late to see if it had caught anything as it had either swallowed the catch already or just been unlucky.

When we reached the mooring at Attichy we decided that we couldn’t stay there as pins would be required.  The mooring was on a straight stretch and not particularly wide so the pull from passing commercials would soon have the pins out.  We think the reason it’s marked as a mooring spot is because there was an old sign marked ‘Halte fluviale’ indicating a slipway.  With a bit of messing around we could have tied one end to the sign and the other around a tree but decided to carry on to Vic-sur-Aisne, the next place with a mooring.  

It was about five o’clock when we approached Vic-sur-Aisne where there was a lock that was closing for winter maintenance at the weekend for five weeks.  This closure was one of those that we’ve had to plan around in order to decide our route for the rest of the year.  We could see large silos ahead and the distinctive smell of fish and chip shops, not something we've associated with silos before.

Fish & chip silos?

It clearly wasn't a chip factory and we couldn't find out what was producing the aroma.  Coincidentally, we've often passed an 'oven chip' factory in Épernay owned by a company called McCain where the smell of the chips is very distinctive and permeates across a wide area.

Approaching the lock to be closed from the weekend

Old information plate on the lock cottage

As usual there was a walnut tree by the lock and as soon as we’d risen to the top Karen was off checking.  The lock area was fenced off from the public, so she struck lucky and came back full of smiles.  As we were mooring for the day above the lock, she said she would go back to add to her haul.

Moored above the lock at Vic-sur-Aisne

There was a rare water point at the mooring so while I sorted out taking on water Karen went off to get her nuts.

Karen’s latest haul

We already had two large baskets of nuts drying out, so goodness knows where she was going to put these – we’re rapidly running out of living space.

When I said the water point was rare that isn’t actually true.  There are water points at the top of most locks on thos river, but they are in place for large boats; there’s no way a narrowboat can be moored safely against the commercial dolphins.  As well as having free water, electricity was available, so I hooked up to that as well in case we needed the fan heater later in the evening.  Once connected, the socket tester showed the supply was of reverse polarity, so I had to add our extension cable that reverses it back the other way to make sure we were safe. 

Before and after adding the polarity reversing cable

A fisherman was set up in front of our mooring and was keen to talk every time he caught my eye while I was pottering around.  He was particularly interested in the difference in approach to the coronavirus situation in the UK and France and also how we felt about it.  At least that’s what I thought we were talking about and, as we seemed to get on, I must have been on the right lines.  

On Thursday we cruised 13 miles up four locks.

Our view of the 'non' chip factory on Friday morning

Friday was a ‘life’ day; a day where we don’t cruise but do boat and personal chores such as replacing gas bottles and checking our finances. One of the pressing things at the moment is trying to understand what we need to do to be able to continue cruising in France next year after Brexit. Coupled with that is understanding the new regulations that we will be applied in order for Buddy to be with us too.  Of course nothing is set in stone yet, for example the government website tells pet owners to contact vets four months before travel.  As the EU haven't yet decided what type of country the UK will be as far as pets are concerned, vets can only tell pet owners the worst case scenario.  They have to assume the UK will be treated as what the EU calls a third country.  This will mean Buddy needs a new passport as well as additional innoculations and blood tests. 

It had rained overnight on Thursday leaving Friday morning grey but dry.  By the middle of the afternoon the clouds had disappeared and left us with some welcome sunshine. Before lunch we had a good look around Vic-sur-Aisne which is situated at the top of a hill above the river.  It was a pleasant place, not much bigger than a large village really, with just one street of local shops and a few bars.

The centre of the village

Because of its location Vic-sur-Aisne suffered many attacks and was badly damaged during WWI.  Every so often we came across a plaque commemorating civilians or soldiers who'd died at that particular spot in the village.  Apart from the occasional plaque we've never come across so many before and it rather brought home how we could never understand how incredibly different life must have been under occupation.

Many of the houses were quite grand and much of the place was built in the same light-coloured stone as the buildings in the main street as can be seen in the few pictures we took.  We headed for the tourist office but, contrary to the opening hours displayed in the window, it was closed so we made up our own tour.

Just off the main street was a keep with stonework dating from the 12^th century.  It is now a private residence together with the château in the same grounds.  Neither were open to the public but under 'normal' conditions they can be hired for functions.

The keep with the mairie in the background…

…and the château with the keep in the background

Our friends Ian & Lisette were most fortunate when they visited Vic-sur-Aisne in the summer of 2018.  They were seen wandering around the grounds by the lady owner who greeted them in English and offered to let them have a look around the buildings on their own.  Judging from their pictures it must have been quite a stunning visit: please click this link to read their account.

On the way back to the boat we went via the lock we came up yesterday.  The idea was to see the weir up close as our guidebook explained it incorporated the last needle dam left on the River Aisne.

The village church near the lock

When we saw the weir, we could immediately see there was no longer a needle dam and an information board explained it was replaced in 2017.  We’d seen a few needle dams on the Marne last year and found them most fascinating.  Click here to see one that we wrote about at the time.

After lunch we walked up to the village again, this time we went through and out the other side where there was a small Intermarché.  Karen popped in to pick up a few bits while Buddy and I had a short walk around some nearby woods.  On the way back we noticed that the small grocers in the village had gas bottles outside.  I had a quick check and could see they had one of the same brand that had run out last week (we’ve found many French outlets are very finnicky and insist on only swapping like for like, brand-wise).

So, after the shopping was unpacked and put away, we walked up the hill for a third time, this time with a trolley and an empty gas bottle. The guy who served me said he couldn’t change it as he had no full ones of that brand left.  I hastily pointed out the one bottle sitting hidden at the back that fitted the bill and he apologised and took our empty bottle in exchange.  Later when I updated our boat expenses spreadsheet, I noticed it was the second cheapest bottle we’ve bought over here, quite surprising considering it was a small shop.

Having exhausted what we wanted to do in Vic-sur-Aisne we will move on to Soissons over the coming weekend if the weather remains kind.