Pouillenay (our first hoopoes)

It was a nine o’clock start on Monday because we wanted to finish before lunch as there was a chance of rain in the afternoon.  As it turned out it was pretty cloudy most of the time and we saw very little sun. In fact, just as Karen took over steering, it did start to rain so it was on with the wet weather gear but only for 10 minutes.

Exiting our 300th French lock under grey skies
We had the same éclusier for all 11 locks and he was ready as agreed by nine o’clock when we arrived at the first lock.  This guy had a different approach to others we have seen, partly because there were bollards on only one side of each lock.  The locks were all semiautomatic; the gates and gate paddles were opened manually but the ground paddles were controlled electronically.

The controls for operating the ground paddles were on the opposite side of the lock to the bollards.  We only needed one gate open so naturally he opened the gate on the side he was working.  This meant that once we were in the lock, we had to get over to the other side to get a rope around a bollard.  This wasn’t really a problem because the locks are so long, but we had to keep remembering to do it.

Our man and his scooter
Once he opened the bottom ground paddles to let the water out, he would hop on his scooter, scoot down to the next lock, open the top ground paddles to fill the lock and scoot back to us. He clearly knew how to time it as whenever he returned our bottom gates were just about ready to open.  It occurred to us that this was the first time over here that we have been left alone in locks.  It all worked well as we were down the 11 locks in under two hours.

Another difference was that many of the gates were opened by a windy wheel
None of the lock cottages were empty or abandoned today and most had lovingly, cared for gardens.

One of today’s pretty lockside gardens
We moored up in the village of Marigny-le-Cahouët, had lunch and then went for a walk.

Our mooring for Monday night
While having lunch we noticed the water level dropping and, as it was a very shallow mooring in a shortish pound, it was a quick dash to loosen the lines and push the boat out.  We did it just in time as the boat was beginning to ground.  We then realised that a widebeam was coming up the locks, hence the sudden drop in water level and they moored up a little way in front of us.  We introduced ourselves as we walked past, and it was Alex & Sue on The Busted Flush who Paul & Sue on Flubs had talked about when we cruised with them for a few days on the Canal du Nivernais.

Thinking about the Canal du Nivernais reminds me that I haven’t included a route map for a while.  The royal blue line shows the journey we have been on since setting out at the end of March, that’s 300 locks and 538 kilometres ago!

During Monday we cruised six kilometres down11 locks.

Tuesday was another early start and as we were getting ready to leave, Alex & Sue set off in the opposite direction.  As we were heading for the first lock an éclusier pulled up to tell us that there was a problem with low water in a pound further up and that he would be with us about 15 minutes late.  We moored back up and waited for him to return which true to his word was only about 15 minutes. 

We’re still cruising through the lovely rolling green fields and hills of the Côte d’Or and we’re still amazed as to the extent of the region, which neither of us have ever visited before.

  
For the last couple of days I think I have spotted a hoopoe flying across the cut in the distance and today I saw several closer by and could see they were definitely hoopoes; their black and white tails make a distinctive sight when in flight.

These poplars seem to have escaped the disease that have hit so many around here:

  
 The ones the other side of this lock haven’t fared as well though:

We moored for lunch below our twelfth lock and we had an extended lunch break as our éclusier had finished for the day and was handing over to someone else who wasn’t available straight after lunch.  When we went to set off, we realised we were stuck; the pound had dropped, and we were stuck fast on the bottom.  No amount of poling and rocking would free us from whatever we had grounded on.  We couldn’t use the engine as the propeller and rudder were both immovable too.

In the end our new éclusier came to find out why we weren’t at the lock on time.  When we explained the issue, he said we would open the paddles on the lock above us to raise the water levels.  This he did and once the water was coming past us, we were soon free and on our way.

Our first lock after lunch
You may just be able to make out a guy and two young girls behind Karen in the picture above.  They were fascinated by the boat and we had a good chat as it transpired that he and his partner and the girls have lived in a camper for a few years.  They have covered much of southern and parts of eastern Europe and are now working around France and hope to get up to Norway by the end of summer.

As you may have gathered, we are going down a lot of locks at the moment and they are relatively close together for a few days, so we have to be careful where we moor overnight.  We moored in a nice wide pound between two locks that is a recognised mooring spot with a few bollards.  There were a few fisherman along the bank and, while we were coming down the last lock, our friendly éclusier went over and asked them to make room us!

Moored at Pouillenay with fishermen and campervan for company
When we said goodbye to our éclusier he thanked me for my sourire (smile) which made us smile all the more.  It wasn’t the first time we’ve been thanked for being friendly and happy either.

As it seemed the threat of rain had gone for the day, we went for a bike ride further down the canal and then had a look around the village.  For once, there was a little grocer shop, but typically for us, it was closed on Tuesdays

Boat looking lonely in the far corner
We were next to a water point where you turn a handle to get the water, but the outlet is only suitable for filling buckets – no fixings to attach a hose.  As we were next to it, we had a couple of trips to top up the water tank using our newly found plastic water carriers which we easily filled using a funnel.

Karen had a handy bollard to sit on
During Tuesday we cruised six kilometres down 19 locks.

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