Friday, 24 August 2012

The final leg to the River Severn

The River Avon from Bath to Bristol

The final stretch to Bristol is on the River Avon.  We were a bit nervous about this trip as there had been a lot of rain that summer and we had been getting email alerts every so often when the river was closed for a day or more at a time.  When it gets too high it becomes too dangerous for inland craft to use and the locks are padlocked up.
Many of the old wharves in Bath had been converted to yuppie apartments as in many river./canal towns around the country.

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It was our first time on tidal waters so it gave Diesel a chance to wear his life jacket.

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Some of the permanent moorings looked a bit precarious, especially these next to a weir.

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We saw more kingfishers per mile than we ever had anywhere else.  At times it felt that they were the most common bird on the river.  I have yet to get a close up picture of a kingfisher but will do one day.  We had left the boat for two weeks at Bathampton in July.  We returned on a lovely sunny Friday evening and were having a glass of wine on the front deck.  Suddenly a kingfisher alighted on the mooring line no more than four feet away from us.  We had noticed that they use mooring lines as fishing perches and this one had obviously got used to the boat being empty.  There was no way I could get a picture as the first movement we made would scare it off. I will never forget the image of being that close to such a beautiful bird though.

Locks on the River Avon

The locks on the Avon were larger than on the canals but not as large as those on the River Thames.  Like the majority of those on the canals they were all manually operated.

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Hanham lock

This was the last lock before Bristol and you have to call the Bristol harbourmaster to get permission to leave the lock and continue downstream . We had to wait an hour for the tide to rise before we were allowed to go through.  As you can see the river is same height both sides of the lock.

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After three more miles we finally saw the sign that said we were at the harbour.

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Entering and nosing round Bristol harbour

Bristol harbour felt massive and far larger than any basin we had been in before.  There were no worries about finding places to turn.  We had a good cruise around before finding where we wanted to moor.  The harbour is 2 1/2 miles long so there were plenty of places to moor.  We went to the dock by the Watershed first but then realised that it would be incredibly noisy at night because of the bars and restaurants.  It transpired we were right as whenever we walked down there it was full of hen and stag parties so we nicknamed it ‘Hen alley’.

We ended up on new pontoons opposite the SS Great Britain down near the western end of the harbour.  It was nice and quiet and hardly any other boats moored there whilst we stayed there. The weather was still pretty miserable as it was most of the 2012 summer.  

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Around the harbour  

We stayed in the harbour for three weeks whilst waiting for the weather to improve.  We needed calm conditions before we could hire a pilot to take us out to Sharpness and up the River Severn to Gloucester.  

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It would have been a fantastic journey going up the Severn, especially under the two M4 bridges.  We had discussions with the pilots’ office every day but the weather was never settled enough.  In the end we had to agree to try another year and head back east to Reading.  It was also getting very expensive paying mooring fees in the harbour.  I suspect we will end up doing it in the opposite direction one day when we have toured the north and are heading back down south through Stratford to Gloucester.

Our final evening in the harbour coincided with the closing ceremony of the 2012 Olympics and, ironically, it was a lovely warm evening and the squares with outside screens were packed.

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Wednesday, 1 August 2012

Life as continuous cruisers

Logistics

We gave up our moorings at Newbury on October 1st 2011 and started continuously cruising.  As we were both working this generally meant every other weekend was spent like this:
  • Friday evening - drive to boat and visit pub
  • Saturday - cruise to next place where boat could be left for two weeks
  • Sunday - walk back to get car and drive home
Deciding where to leave the boat entailed using a map to find a likely spot near a road bridge and a pub (for that Friday drink).  Then a look at the satellite view on a PC to make sure there would be places to park the car and moor the boat.
The only drawback to this approach was that we had to cruise on a Saturday whatever the weather.  But providing we were dressed for the occasion it didn’t matter, especially if we had the slow cooker going for an evening meal.  Sometimes it meant cycling or walking back to the car in the rain.  I remember one day when we cycled and the bikes were absolutely filthy so I dunked them in the canal before putting them in the car.  A lady walking her dog said she wasn’t surprised that I found bikes in the canal but wondered how I knew they were there!

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Off to Reading

We fancied going to visit Oxford so we headed east to the end of the Kennet & Avon canal (the K&A) at Reading where we could then pick up the Thames to Oxford. 

On the way down to Reading we went through Monkey Marsh lock which is one of only two turf sided locks in the country.  A guy in an old suit walks from Thatcham to this lock nearly every day and sits inside a pill box next to the lock until a boat comes along (The K&A has pill boxes along its length - no idea why we thought the invading Germans would use a canal).  When a boat comes the guy gets out of the box to operate the lock.  I never managed to get him to talk but he obviously feels the lock is his - we refer to him as Monkey Marsh Man.

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The K&A cuts through the centre of the Oracle shopping centre in Reading but they have not made much of it.  Unlike Birmingham and other towns you are not allowed to moor up and the canal is very much kept at arms length.  It even has traffic lights to enforce one way traffic through the centre.

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The Thames & Oxford

Our canal licence doesn’t cover us for using the Thames so there is a daily charge to use the river. The charge varies according to the length of the boat and as it was going to cost us £40 a day we didn’t really want to hang around for long.

It was quite an experience going on the Thames.  The locks were operated by lock keepers and they directed the boats into the locks which are large and can accommodate far more boats than canal locks.  It was fun sharing locks with the plastic gin palaces - just looking at their faces, frightened our big steel boat would crush them, was entertaining.  The locks all had well tended gardens and the lock keepers were very friendly.  Unfortunately, in 2013, the Environment Agency announced that they were to make the majority of the lock keepers redundant and replace them with voluntary staff.  

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We turned right off the Thames at Oxford to go down a narrow cut to the Oxford canal.  On the cut we passed an old railway swing bridge - health and safety wouldn’t allow such a thing these days.  Around a tight left hand bend we saw the entrance to the Oxford, the first lock and how narrow it seemed compared with the Thames’ locks.  We left the boat in Jericho for a couple of weeks and spent time visiting Oxford.  Lauren was studying at Oxford Brookes at the time and working in Boswell’s.  Like a lot of towns many people are not aware there is a canal passing through; the Oxford canal starts at the back of the rail station and runs north through Jericho.  It is our favourite canal to date, the single width locks mean there are no wide craft and it passes some really rural areas on its way to Coventry.

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We then decided we would like to get down to Bristol and up the river Severn to Gloucester before the end of the summer so we headed back south to Reading to travel the length of the Kennet & Avon to Bristol.

Back to Reading and west to Devizes (Queen’s Diamond Jubilee)

On our way back to Reading we saw that preparations had already started for Reading festival even though it was only April.

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On our way through Hungerford we spent some time with our friends Sharon and Simon who were helping out on the annual Devizes to Westminster canoe race.  Here they are with their son, Robin, who is in the back. 

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At the summit of the K&A is Bruce’s tunnel, our first canal tunnel.  The shot taken inside was with a flash so it’s not really that bright - the light from the headlight can be seen at the front. 

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As it was the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee we cut out cloth triangles and Karen painstakingly sewed them to form a 150’ long bunting to adorn the boat. 

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This was about the time we got to Devizes and its famous Caen Hill locks; 29 in two miles with 16 in close succession.  It takes a good few hours to do these and fortunately Karen had Jo to help her as we locked down.  Jo looked like she needed that mug of tea I had made her as we neared the bottom.

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Next we headed for Bath on our way to Bristol…

Bath

The next stop on on our way to Bristol was in Bath.  Matthew, Catherine and Joanna joined us for a weekend and Catherine was reminded that studying is still required even when she was away from uni.

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Bath has one of the largest communities of liveaboard boaters outside of London.  Consequently it can be very difficult to find moorings unless you get right into the city where the moorings are 24 or 48 hour only. 

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The canal architecture is ornate as it passes through Bath.

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We spent quite a bit of time wandering around Bath but, as usual, didn’t seem to take many pictures.

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More proof of my cackhandedness appeared again when we were moored in Bath when I assembled a barbecue for use on the towpath.  It was only when I finished that I realised I had put the handle on the base.

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There is a flight of six locks in the middle of Bath taking the canal down to meet the River Avon.  The penultimate lock is the second deepest in the country with a drop of 19’ 5”, about three times deeper than the average lock.  As you can imagine the gates are massive and Karen could not move them on her own.  Fortunately there is a road bridge crossing the end of the lock and some white ‘venmen’ saw her struggling and stopped in the road and leapt over the fence to help her.

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Leaving the last lock at Bath we joined the River Avon and this sign told us we were on the last leg to Bristol.

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Next trip, Bristol harbour…